In Flanders Fields
They say “things” go in threes. The Gremlins were certainly counting during the couple of days prior to our cycle trip to Belgium, around the WW1 battle sites.
“Thing”1. Two days before the off, one of our number managed to injure her shoulder by waving to someone across the road! What she was waving is unclear, but the injury was sufficient for her to have reluctantly to pull out of the trip. Fortunately the hotel was understanding and no cancellation fees were incurred.
“Thing”2. One day prior to the off, we discovered the ferry company had mistakenly cancelled one of the three vehicles we had booked for the crossing from Dover to Dunkirk. When this was pointed out to them, they advised that the 12.00 o’clock sailing was now full and this “extra” car would have to be squeezed on the 2.00 o’clock sailing – and oh, there’d be a £5 admin fee!! We graphically indicated what they should attempt to do with this £5, but had to accept their suggestion that we should arrive early in Dover in the hope they could get all three vehicles on the 12 o’clock.
“Thing”3. On the very day of our departure, the 7a.m. BBC News bulletin announced that all Ferry crossings to Calais had been suspended due to the discovery of a WW1 bomb. Traffic was being diverted to Dunkirk!!
We were cheerily greeted at the Flanders Best Western Hotel in Ieper, and our rooms and bike storage were quickly organised. We all commented on how efficient and friendly our reception had been, not realising at that stage that this was very much the hallmark of the hotel. Really superb in all respects.
That evening we walked into Ieper (Flemish name; French name -Ypres; Wipers to the British Tom), to witness the Mennen Gate ceremony. The monument itself has the names of thousands of fallen soldiers carved on its walls and ceiling, the impact of which is immediate and truly humbling. The ceremony has been held every evening since 1929, except during WW2 when Belgium was occupied by Germany. On our evening, the ceremony included the laying of wreaths from 10 organisations and families from all over the UK and one from Canada. It was particularly touching to see youngsters laying tributes to their long lost relatives. 
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| The Smurfs |
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| Essex Farm |
Our next stop was a few miles further north at a recently discovered dugout, of a Yorkshire regiment. Although this reconstruction is highly sanitised, it gives a good idea of the extent and conditions in these trenches.
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| Anne in Yorkshire Trenches |
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| The "Dodengang" |
We completed 56 miles on this first day, which meant that with visits, lunch and the wind (nothing to do with lunch), we arrived back to the hotel at about 7 o’clock, in time for dinner at 8 o’clock
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On day 2 of cycling, we completed the ‘Legacy Route’. This is a prescribed route to the East of Ieper, and follows the battle lines around Passchendaele The Passchendaele museum is extensive, and in itself really justifies a full day, but with riding and other visits to make, we had to limit our stay. |
| Graham and Barry taking advantage of the communial latrine in an underground bunker |
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| Baldrick |
Interestingly, this pub had a glass partition that isolated a smoking area. The lady proprietor twice retreated behind the glass for a drag, and sat there to all appearances like one of the ladies one can see in shop windows in Amsterdam or Brussels – or so I am told.
Towards the end of this ride we came to 'Tyne Cot' cemetery (named by Northumberland Fusiliers, who saw a similarity between the German Pill boxes of the area, and typical Tyneside workers cottages).
This huge cemetery and memorial to the missing, commands a broad rise in the landscape, and was strategically important to both sides.
We completed 36 miles on this day.
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We set off on Wednesday morning with some trepidation, as our route would lead to the south of Ieper and up to ‘Hill 60’ and the Messiness Ridge. We needn’t have worried however.Although this rise was undoubtedly significant to the military, it was no challenge to us hardened cyclists. This area is famous for the tunnelling exploits of Commonwealth Sappers in 1917. 22 Long tunnels, some over 100ft deep, were dug towards German lines and packed with explosives, which were detonated at 3.00 a.m. on 7th June. The explosion was said to rattle teacups in Whitehall. The attack was a success and has left 19 huge mine craters, such as the one at Hill 60 .Yet again the roads and paths were ideal for cycling and the numbered junctions made navigation easy
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Lunch, which had become an ‘all consuming’ topic, was taken in the town of Messen (or Messines in French). The café chosen had an attractive appearance from the outside and, shall we say, a certain Gallic charm on the inside – we were after all just 2 Kilometres from France. After lunch, we made a quick visit to the Messen Museum and headed for the challenge of the day - the Kemmelberg.  |
| Sue - Before the Kemmelberg |
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| Jerry -"Hill? What hill?" |
Lunch, the wind and the hills had taken their toll on all of us by the time we reached the villiage ofKemmel , and the vote was to cut out a hilly loop which would have taken us past the British underground headquarters. We decided to take a pleasant meander back to Leper and, because we were all tired, Chris decided to have the first of her slow punctures. We pumped her up and completed 41 miles this day.
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On our last day, we decided to cut short our planned ride so that we could spend the afternoon looking around Ieper itself. We set off early from the hotel and headed west to Poperinger, known as ‘Pop’ by the British Tommy. On route Chris decided to have her second slow puncture, but with that mended we still arrived in Pop by late morning.
Pop was maybe 6 miles from the battlefront, and was a place of R&R. It was here that Talbot House (Toc H) was established as an “every man” club by the Reverend “Tubby” Clayton. The idea was to provide a place of quiet respite for all ranks, away from the Pubs and Streets frequented by rowdy soldiers .
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| Talbot House |
We watch an enactment of entertainment of the time, and enjoyed a cup of ‘free’ coffee/tea -on offer as a reminder of the welcome given to the troops (mind you we had to pay to get in!).
We made a quick return to our Hotel, completing just 27 miles cycling this day, but spent our last afternoon enjoying the sites of Leper.
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| Exam time |
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| Cheers |
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| Chris - our Quiz organiser |
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| Guess who won the Quiz then |
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| first prize |
Belgium is certainly a cycle friendly country with a superb network of smooth paths and quiet lanes. What Belgium lacks in potholes however, it make up for in cobblestones in the towns and villages. Like Hieneken beer, cobblestone vibrations reach the parts you didn’t know you had
This was our first attempt at an overseas adventure, and it turned out to be an excellent trip thanks to everybody’s relaxed and friendly approach. So, well done folks-where shall we go next?
